California Bountiful is the food and lifestyle magazine of the California Farm Bureau, dedicated to connecting consumers with the food they eat and the farmers and ranchers who grow it. The California Farm Bureau Federation is a non-governmental, non-profit, voluntary membership organization whose purpose is to protect and promote agricultural interests throughout the state of California and to find solutions to the problems of the farm, the farm home and the rural community. Farm Bureau is California's largest farm organization, comprised of 53 county Farm Bureaus, and strives to protect and improve the ability of farmers and ranchers to provide a reliable supply of food and fiber through responsible stewardship. The California Farm Bureau Federation is a non-governmental, non-profit, voluntary membership organization whose purpose is to protect and promote agricultural interests throughout the state of California and to find solutions to the problems of the farm, the farm home and the rural community. Farm Bureau is California's largest farm organization, comprised of 53 county Farm Bureaus. Farm Bureau strives to protect and improve the ability of farmers and ranchers engaged in production agriculture to provide a reliable supply of food and fiber through responsible stewardship of California's resources.
Six new recipes to make in the new year
Vineyard workers take on leadership roles
Photo contest winners capture seasons of life
January/February 2024
Family HEIRLOOMS Couple grows rare bean varieties
January/February 2024
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Features
4 From the editors 5 A la carte
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Living it up Coachella Valley family’s fresh herbs have staying power.
27 Book reviews 37 Good for you 38 Ask a farmer 41 Now from Nationwide 42 Gardening 44 Take 5 46 It’s a bountiful life
12 Seasons of life
Winning photos showcase the variety of agricultural lifestyles in California.
18 Ready to lead
Vineyard workers take on new roles in Sonoma County.
28 ‘Better than we found it’
Award finalists seek to improve the land under their care.
32 Growing appreciation
Marketing expert builds support for farmers and ranchers.
Six new recipes to make in the new year
Vineyard workers take on leadership roles
Photo contest winners capture seasons of life
January/February 2024
ON THE COVER: Retired science
teacher Mike Reeske and his wife, Chris, aim to revive heirloom bean varieties. See Page 22.
Family HEIRLOOMS Couple grows rare bean varieties
Photo: David Poller
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From the editors
VOLUME 47 • ISSUE 1
Melanie Duval Chief Marketing Officer Peter Hecht Chief Editor of Publications Barbara Arciero Managing Editor Linda DuBois Assistant Editor Caleb Hampton, Ching Lee,
Welcome to 2024. As we begin a new year, with it comes a sense of renewal that can inspire us to make changes or start new endeavors to improve our personal lives and the world around us. In this issue of California Bountiful , we share the stories of several folks who are busy working to create positive changes. The annual Leopold Conservation Award finalists have made it a point to farm with sustainable practices that leave the land under their care better than they found it. They point out that doing what’s right for the environment has been shown to benefit not just the land and its inhabitants but also their businesses and the bottom line. You’ll also meet some of the people involved in a leadership academy launched last year to give vineyard workers a path to promotions into management and other higher-level jobs. It’s boosting not only the individuals but the wine sector and the state’s economy at large. A former schoolteacher is dedicating his retirement years to cultivating rare heirloom beans that are important to Native American traditions and can provide a healthful protein source in a changing climate. (You’ll learn more about the health benefits of beans in this issue’s “Good for You” column.) Then there’s a farm- and ranch-supply store owner who thrives on giving back to the community, a cut-flower grower who enjoys putting smiles on people’s faces and a family of living-herb growers who seek to provide a fresher, better-tasting product. In this issue, you’ll also learn tips on avoiding waste by using parts of food items normally thrown out and get instructions on making decorative stake guides to keep garden hoses from dragging across plants. Plus, you’ll see the photographs and read about the amateur photographers who won prizes in the 42nd annual California Farm Bureau Photo Contest. Like your team at California Bountiful , the woman featured in this issue’s recipe section finds satisfaction in helping people understand and appreciate how farming and ranching positively impact their everyday lives. We hope you enjoy the stories and a bountiful new year.
Christine Souza, Caitlin Fillmore, Cyndee Fontana-Ott, Ashley Hawk, Pat Rubin Writers James Collier, Fred Greaves, Melissa Jewel, David Poller, Meg van der Kruik, Paolo Vescia Photographers
Paula Erath, Nicole Love, CMB Design Partners
Graphic Designers Brock Tessandori Business Development Manager
Contact us: California Bountiful, 2600 River Plaza Drive, Sacramento, CA 95833 916-561-5552 cbmagazine@californiabountiful.com californiabountiful.com Subscribe: To subscribe to California Bountiful for yourself or as a gift, call 916-561-5552 or go to californiabountiful.com.
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California Bountiful ® (ISSN 0194-5165) is published bimonthly by the California Farm Bureau Federation, 2600 River Plaza Drive, Sacramento, CA 95833 (telephone: 916-561‑5552). Non-profit periodicals postage paid at Sacramento, California. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to California Bountiful, 2600 River Plaza Drive, Sacramento, CA 95833. The California Farm Bureau Federation does not assume responsibility for statements by advertisers or for products advertised in California Bountiful, nor does the Federation assume responsibility for statements or expressions of opinion other than in editorials or in articles showing authorship by an officer, director or employee of the California Farm Bureau Federation or its affiliates.
identifies California Farm Bureau members
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January/February 2024
a la carte
gardening feature New
With the new year comes a new online gardening feature by California Bountiful
columnist Pat Rubin. Each month, Rubin highlights one plant that shows off beautiful color during that time of year. A few examples
are bright yellow daffodils in February, followed by lilacs in April, sunflowers in July, chrysanthemums in September and choral bark Japanese maple in October. Think there’s no color in the cold months? Then you’re forgetting about beautyberries, yuletide camellias and red twig dogwood. You can find “A Year of Seasonal Plants” at californiabountiful.com under the Gardening tab.
Tulare County: ‘We’re No.1’
Tulare County was the nation’s top agricultural producer for 2022, edging out its neighboring counties of Fresno and Kern, which were the top producers in 2020 and 2021, respectively. Tulare’s production surpassed $8.61 billion in 2022, representing an increase of 6.5% above 2021’s value, according to the county’s recently released annual crop report. Tulare County farmers and ranchers provide a diverse bounty, including milk, livestock, field crops, pistachios, almonds, oranges and table grapes, among others. Tulare, Fresno and Kern counties account for 44% of California’s total
agriculture production value.
Nothing beats beets A perfect balance of sweet and earthy, beets are highly nutritious and can be eaten cooked or raw. They can be boiled, steamed, roasted, slow-cooked or even microwaved whole. They’re also good cut or shredded into noodles and sautéed. Raw beets can be puréed and added to baked goods or desserts, sliced and added to salads, or cut into sticks and wedges and added to a vegetable party tray. Besides
their typical deep reddish-purple hue, beets can be golden-yellow, white or two-toned. These versatile root vegetables are available year- round in California, so enjoy them now or anytime.
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Living it up
Cutline here
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January/February 2024
Living it up Coachella Valley family’s fresh herbs have staying power
Story by Cyndee Fontana-Ott ∞ Photos by Melissa Jewel
Nearly 30 years ago, Suzette Overgaag stared at fast-fading herbs from the grocery store and decided there should be a better option. So she and her husband, Leo, created one. Their North Shore Greenhouses, more familiarly known as North Shore Living, is now a thriving business in the Coachella Valley that grows and sells living herbs and greens. Cultivated largely in two big, automated greenhouses, the roughly 20 different varieties are sold with attached roots in pots and/or clamshell packaging. “It smells fresher, it tastes fresher and it looks fresher,” Suzette says. “When you look at the difference between cut and bunched and living, it’s a different product completely.” Shoppers seem to agree. From humble exploratory beginnings in a small greenhouse, North Shore has evolved into more than 10 acres of hydroponically grown greenhouse space and more than 130 employees. North Shore’s primary business is young, tender herbs such as basil, thyme, mint, sage and chives—all of which are showcased in recipes on its website. The Overgaags’ middle daughter, Brittney Bubb, is the creative director, a recipe developer (check out the fish tacos on Page 9) and website photographer. Sustainability is key This sophisticated greenhouse operation is located in the Riverside County community of Thermal. The company leans heavily on sustainable practices ranging from solar power to reused water to geothermal energy; it is recognized as a sustainable grower for its earth- and employee-friendly practices, such as awarding scholarships to the children and grandchildren of employees.
Leo and Suzette Overgaag run a sophisticated greenhouse operation in Riverside County that specializes in young, tender herbs sold with their roots attached for freshness.
North Shore Greenhouses grows 19 different herbs, including basil, its top seller, shown above at the seedling stage. After reaching maturity, it is either packed in clamshell containers, right and far right, or in pots.
Much of the unique greenhouse technology draws on Leo’s expertise and family background. Both of Leo’s grand- fathers owned greenhouse operations in Holland; his father brought that knowledge to the United States when the family immigrated in the 1960s. The company founded by Leo’s father, Hollandia Flowers, became Hollandia Produce and was later taken over by Leo’s brother, Pete, who introduced Pete’s Living Greens. Suzette and Leo first met on the job at Hollandia Flowers. Suzette spotted Leo driving a tractor and decided she wanted to meet him. Sparks flew when they did and the couple married in 1984. Back then, as the daughter of a dentist and dental hygienist, Suzette didn’t know much about greenhouses or farming. “Coming from that kind of area and then going into this business was extremely different and really cool,” she says. “The traditions and culture the Dutch have—I feel so blessed to know and be a part of it.” The couple struck out on their own in the late 1980s with dreams of
developing a family farm. They built a greenhouse and originally planned to plant roses—until they discovered it would cost six figures to buy the plants. The Overgaags switched to hothouse cucumbers until they could save enough cash for roses. Cucumbers, however, proved to be a strong crop while a flood of imports softened the market for roses. Pivot to living herbs The couple grew cucumbers until imports also began to eat into that market. Around the mid-1990s, they decided to search for another crop—and that’s when Suzette had an epiphany about herbs. “What the stores need is herbs that stay fresher longer,” she told Leo. “Then the consumer has time to use them.” He embraced the idea and cleared greenhouse space for a small yearlong pilot. “I wanted to go through all four seasons to make sure we wouldn’t have any surprises when we started growing them,” Leo says. Based on that success, the couple
scaled up production to sell to retailers. The business continued to grow as Leo, a frequent visitor to Europe, harnessed and adapted the latest in greenhouse technology for use in the company. They built the first greenhouse specifically for herbs in 1999, and cucumbers were fully retired about a decade ago. In addition to Bubb, the Overgaags’ other children—Ashley and Tony—also work at least part-time for the company. Today, most North Shore herbs are grown in two highly automated greenhouses powered in large part by solar panels and warmed on cool nights by geothermal energy. Beneficial insects such as ladybugs, rather than pesticides, are the soldiers in pest control. The Overgaags say such measures make sense both from a business and sustainability standpoint. The company germinates plants from seed. In the two main greenhouses, seedlings are placed individually into 25-foot-long gutters that move along a mechanized system. The plants are touched only a few times by human hands.
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North Shore Living cilantro is an essential component of these easy-to-make fish tacos, starring in both the crunchy slaw and the creamy sauce. BLACKENED FISH TACOS with cilantro sauce It’s taco time
Serves 4
Avocado-cilantro sauce 1/2 cup sour cream 1 avocado, pitted and skinned 1/4 cup chopped cilantro 1 lime, juiced 1 jalapeño, chopped and seeded Salt, to taste Slaw 1/4 red cabbage, thinly sliced 1/4 green cabbage, thinly sliced 1/2 medium red onion, diced 1/2 cup chopped cilantro 3 limes, juiced
Blackened fish 1 1/2 lb. tilapia fillets 1 1/2 tsp. paprika 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. onion powder 1/2 tsp. cumin 1/2 tsp. salt 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper
2 tbsp. canola oil 12 corn tortillas
Crops are grown hydroponically—in peat moss rather than soil—and use roughly 70% less water than field crops. Any leftover drops are recycled for use. During the growth cycle, herbs are tended and slowly moved from one side of the greenhouse to the other—signaling they are ready for harvest. They are then packaged, sorted and prepared for shipment according to the day’s orders. Cut vs. living herbs The Overgaags say there is plenty of difference between cut and living herbs. “As soon as you cut the stems off the plant, you start a process where they start wilting, drying out, decaying,” Leo says. While cut herbs may only stay fresh for a few days after purchase, living herbs can last an average of one to two weeks, the Overgaags say. That allows the consumer to use more, if not all of the product. “You can use fresh herbs in your salad just like any green,” Suzette says. “There are so many easy things that you can do.”
In a small bowl, combine paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, cumin, salt and cayenne pepper. Sprinkle mixture over both sides of tilapia fillets and pat down seasonings. Combine all of the avocado-cilantro sauce ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Add all of the slaw ingredients in a separate large bowl and mix well. Heat canola oil in a heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. Once heated, add tilapia (a few at a time if you can’t fit them all at once). Cook for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, or until the outside is blackened and the fish flakes apart easily. Remove fish from the heat and, if desired, warm tortillas in the same skillet over medium heat, cooking for about 30 seconds on each side. Break up tilapia into 2- to 3-inch pieces. Stack tortillas in twos. Distribute fish evenly between the 6 sets of tortillas, and top with slaw and avocado-cilantro sauce.
Fresh herbs are more than just tasty additions to food and drink. These varied, often pint-sized wonders also pack a health punch that ranges from helpful antioxidant properties to digestive support, according to several dietitians. “Many people associate antioxidant-rich foods with foods like blueberries, dark leafy greens and even chocolate,” says Tawnie Graham, registered dietitian nutritionist and president of Kroll’s Korner LLC. “But fresh herbs are also great sources of antioxidants and, of course, add flair and flavor to food. Basil, parsley and oregano, for instance, are antioxidant-containing herbs so you can pack in nutrition while garnishing and cooking with fresh herbs.” Ashley Hawk, registered dietitian and wellness expert, routinely talks up the benefits of herbs. “When making meal recommendations, I love to encourage my clients to ditch the excess salt and savor the health benefits that herbs bring to your plate,” says Hawk, who with Graham is co-author of California Bountiful’s “Good for You” column. “You can sprinkle in some antioxidant-rich oregano, add in the anti-inflammatory power of turmeric or the digestion-soothing magic of mint. From heart- healthy rosemary to brain-boosting sage, each herb is a tiny treasure trove of goodness.” The list of health benefits is a long one and includes the antioxidant properties of herbs such as rosemary, thyme and basil. Antioxidants help protect cells from damaging “free radicals” and are associated with reducing the risk of chronic conditions such as heart disease and certain types of cancer. “Adding fresh basil to a salad and rosemary on top of your sheet pan chicken and vegetable dish is an easy and effective way to boost flavor and get that extra serving of antioxidants,” Hawk says. Some herbs have anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce inflammation while others help ease digestive discomfort, benefit heart health, support the immune system or potentially assist with regulating blood sugar levels. Finally, herbs can be flavor bombs that support weight management. “Adding herbs to your meals can enhance the flavor of dishes without the need for excessive salt, sugar or unhealthy fats,” Hawk says. “This can be helpful for those looking to manage their weight by reducing calorie intake.” Herbs help support a healthy lifestyle
Brittney Bubb, left, and her mother, Suzette Overgaag, use their company’s fresh herbs to prepare blackened fish tacos with a creamy cilantro sauce.
That includes chopping and combining them with butter or adding herbs to vinegars, oils, cocktails or water. “There’s just so many different ways that you can use them,” she says. “We are trying to come up with some better ways of communicating that.” Another bonus is that many herbs offer health benefits. For example, some herbs are loaded with antioxidants, help with digestion and are flavorful alternatives to extra salt, fat or sugar. Basil is king For the company, the most popular herb by far is basil followed by mint, rosemary, thyme, dill and chives. Those are the top sellers, but North Shore also produces herbs such as sorrel, tarragon, lemon basil and marjoram. “We try to innovate all the time,” Suzette says. One new innovation is a product line called Counter Culture, a gift- worthy trio of different herbs packaged in a waterproof container. Customers can display the collection on the windowsill or counter, use what they need and even replace a spent plant with a new one. The three varieties of herbs are generally timed to the season, Suzette says, and also reflect the company’s mindset. “I really wanted this new product to be sustainable,” she says. “It will actually last a long time, but you can throw it away and it is recyclable. That’s really important to me. ... You want to be as good a steward as you can be in providing a product.”
Cyndee Fontana-Ott cbmagazine@californiabountiful.com
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January/February 2024
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Winning photos showcase the variety of agricultural lifestyles in California Seasons of life
Story by Caitlin Fillmore
From sleepless nights during the ground-shaking almond harvest to long days cultivating thousands of acres, the winning images from the 42nd annual California Farm Bureau Photo Contest depict the real daily lives of people within our state’s diverse agricultural sector. Two of the photos were captured within days of each other—one showing a dairy cow standing in fresh snow and the other a bundle of just-harvested flowers against a lush, mountainous landscape. The variety of California farming and ranching lifestyles came through in these stunning photographs, submitted by talented Farm Bureau members. Cash prizes were given to the adult winners as well as the Budding Artists under age 14, in a category sponsored by the California Foundation for Agriculture in the Classroom. All winning photos are also featured in a calendar.
First Place Cayden Pricolo Merced County Farm Bureau
Cayden Pricolo, a plant and soil sciences major at Oklahoma State University, has an insider’s perspective on growing specialty crops after an internship at Bowles Farming Co. in Los Banos and riding alongside her agronomist dad. While this knowledge can be helpful in the classroom, she finds her photography can say even more. Pricolo’s winning photo captures the hands-on harvesting technique for watermelons in Los Banos. “Especially in the ag industry, photography is a good way to advocate and show the rest of the world how the ag industry is done,” Pricolo says. “Without these people doing this manual labor, we wouldn’t be able to have successful farming to provide food for the world.” Pricolo used a high shutter speed and natural backlighting to perfectly capture the airborne fruit.
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Second Place Ismael (Mel) Resendiz San Diego County Farm Bureau Mel Resendiz can’t possibly choose from among the more than 300 varieties of protea flowers curated over 30 years at Resendiz Brothers farm in Fallbrook. “I keep every one. When people ask me what’s my favorite, I say, ‘All of them,’” Resendiz says. But he will admit he was particularly inspired to capture the first harvest of the Lady Di protea, one of the newest on his 250-acre flower farm in the Pauma Valley. Protea flowers are some of the oldest flowers on Earth and grow on steep hillsides. As one of the workers scaled the hill with fresh Lady Di blooms on his shoulder and the Palomar Mountain in the background, Resendiz had to pull out his iPhone.
Budding Artists
First Place Ashley Jansen, age 12 Colusa County Farm Bureau
Ashley Jansen knows the extensive history of her family farm, first acquired via a land grant 150 years ago. She shares that the land is now primarily used to grow almonds instead of the sugar beets of yesteryear. These almond orchards surround Ashley’s house, bursting with blooms and perfect for a scenic walk with Sydney, Ashley’s dog. While strolling the orchards with Sydney, Ashley stopped to focus on the delicate white blooms when a helpful pollinating bee entered her shot. While a gifted photographer, Ashley gives credit to Sydney who “led me to the perfect photo opportunity!”
Third Place Mishael McDougal Sacramento County Farm Bureau “This is a cow I usually use for work,” begins Mishael McDougal, a classroom educator with the Dairy Council of California. This photogenic, 4-year-old Jersey, whom McDougal calls Valentine, joins McDougal for nutrition education classes at local elementary schools. Valentine lives at Rachelle’s Jerseys in Visalia, a fourth- generation, 2,000-head Jersey-exclusive dairy. “She’s pretty laid-back. It didn’t take too many tries to capture (this image).” McDougal wanted to capture Valentine’s unique markings (a perfect heart shape right on her forehead) and maybe a new way to view dairies. “I think it’s an inspiring but also relaxing depiction of dairy farm life.”
Fourth Place Timothy Danley Glenn County Farm Bureau
Timothy Danley is a fifth-generation farmer who embraces technology to help him tell stories about modern farm life, including this drone shot of Danley’s father working lime into the soil. “Farmers tend to be secluded homebodies. (Photography) makes it easier to explain what we do and exactly what goes into it,” Danley says. This minimalistic shot reminds Danley of water confluence, where two bodies of water mix and combine colors, and clearly depicts agricultural advances over time. “My grandfather used horse- drawn harvesters for rice. Now we can cover hundreds of acres a day. I want people to look and realize one person can get so much done.”
Second Place Natalie Webb, age 10 Sonoma County Farm Bureau
Super fans of this photo contest will recognize this budding photographer, earning accolades for her artwork for the fourth straight year. Natalie, who lives in St. Helena in Napa County, focused on the vibrantly green “baby grapes” in the vineyard behind her house she passes every day on the way to school. It took time to find the most photogenic bunch, says Natalie, who hunted throughout the vineyard before finding this shot. Natalie stays in the moment while shooting photos, relying on spontaneity and her mom’s iPhone. However, Natalie shares she hopes to get her own iPhone someday.
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Honorable mentions
Mariah Earl Solano County Farm Bureau
Mariah Earl’s notable photo depicts the next generation of family farmers, learning the ins and outs of agricultural life. Earl’s family moved to a 5-acre parcel about 20 years ago, cultivating a large garden and adding chickens and sheep five years ago. “We have been trying to learn more about being self-sufficient and teaching my kids that you can grow your own food,” Earl says. Another fun farm lesson? Helping Grandpa drive the tractor in the front yard, of which Earl snagged a candid photo in portrait mode on her iPhone 13 Pro.
Jocelyn Brown Nevada County Farm Bureau
This “goat stampede” was captured on a cool, cloudy day in Rough and Ready. “That’s a real place,” confirms Jocelyn Brown, owner of Restoration Land and Livestock, a prescriptive grazing company. Brown’s herd of 40 Boer, Savanna and Kiko goats is hired to graze on properties, helping reduce fire fuel load and chewing troublesome vines. While these goats “eat for a living” instead of providing meat or milk for cheese or soaps, Brown works to spread awareness of this other job for goats. “I want people to see goats as useful workers. They have something to contribute.”
Ashley Carreiro Fresno County Farm Bureau
Ashley Carreiro grew up around sheep, watching shearing in the spring and feeding baby lambs in the fall. “Now, I’m taking my two daughters to do the same thing,” she says. But for Carreiro’s winning photo, a different type of fluffy substance caught her eye. With her ISO on its lowest setting, Carreiro focused on these emerging buds of cotton on a friend’s farm in Riverdale during a scenic sunset. In addition to gracing the 2024 California Farm Bureau calendar as a winner, these photos also appear as artwork in the farm insurance agency where Carreiro works.
Stan Grosz Fresno County Farm Bureau
As Stan Grosz prepared to retire to his 20-acre raisin and cherry operation outside of Fresno, he dreamed of quiet mornings like this one: “feel-good time,” as he calls it. Grosz’s raisins are seen during harvest with his neighbor’s almond trees beyond, as the harvest moon sets in the background. “In this area, raisins and almonds are it, man,” Grosz says. “I wanted to show them both and represent what our area is like.” While a peaceful scene, Grosz captured it only one day before the photo contest deadline.
Larry Speed Stanislaus County Farm Bureau
Larry Speed carefully set up his tripod to capture this shot of a nighttime harvest of almonds, using a long exposure and careful timing to capture the shaking of the trees. But he didn’t have to set any alarm to get this photo—he was already awake. “When they’re shaking the trees, well, it shakes our house,” says Speed, who lives on part of a 400- acre almond farm called Superior Fruit Ranch. Speed makes the best of the shaking season, using photography to share the “round-the-clock, necessary things that farmers do to get done what needs to get done.”
Mary Ann Renner Humboldt County Farm Bureau
It’s not every day that snow blankets the notoriously green landscapes in Ferndale, where Mary Ann Renner and her husband have operated a 350-head organic dairy farm for 42 years. A blanket of fresh snow last January inspired Renner to pick up her Canon camera and telephoto lens. While the image of the rustic wood barn and posing cow looks like a postcard, Renner hopes her photos provide a real view into country life. “It’s not just a photo shoot. Every day our cows are out on pasture. This is how we raise our animals. It’s a great way of life.”
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From left, Cornerstone Certified Vineyard employees José Ventura Vieyra García, Anelly Reyes Jiménez and José Cervantes, graduates of the Fundación de la Voz de los Viñedos leadership academy, prepare for winegrape harvest at their workplace near Santa Rosa. Right, vineyard workers pull leaves at Dutton Ranch near Sebastopol.
“They taught us about how to be leaders not just at work but also in the community and in our households.” — JOSÉ VENTURA VIEYRA GARCÍA Crew leader at Cornerstone Certified Vineyard
Ready to lead
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Story by Caleb Hampton ∞ Farm photos by Fred Greaves Washington, D.C., photos by Michelle Dondero/Sonoma County Winegrowers Vineyard workers take on new roles in Sonoma County
Growing up in the Mexican state of Oaxaca, José Martínez worked the cornfields with his family. But, he says, “there wasn’t really much work.” After marrying, Martínez and his wife came to California. He found jobs in construction yet struggled to afford more than a single room for his growing family. In 2010, Martínez got a job pruning grapevines at Dutton Ranch, a vineyard in Sonoma County, which soon became home. Unlike in most employment sectors, the job included accommodation in the ranch’s employee housing. He and his family have lived there ever since. “I like working in the vineyards,” he says, “especially harvesting the crop after all the work we do to take care of the vines, from planting to pruning and everything else.” Skilled workers Martínez’s dedication earned him promotions. He now works as a crew supervisor. In the weeks leading up to last year’s harvest, he moved along rows of vines, coaching a group of two dozen workers as they pulled leaves to expose the grapes to sunlight. “It’s a skilled job,” says Steve Dutton, owner of Dutton Ranch. “You have to understand the form of the grapevine, how you want its structure to be, pruning, suckering, leaf-pulling, all kinds of things.” Experienced vineyard workers such as Martínez enable Sonoma County to produce some of the world’s best cabernets, chardonnays and pinot noirs, which annually fetch around $8 billion in sales. The county’s wine sector also powers the local economy. About a quarter of all jobs in Sonoma County are in the winemaking and grape-growing sectors, bringing in more than $3 billion annually in wages, according to Sonoma County Vintners. Wine tourism generates an additional $1.2 billion each year.
“It’s very obvious to those of us who know the industry, who have been in this area for a long time, that the farmworkers are an incredibly important part—probably the most important part— of this equation,” says Rep. Mike Thompson, D-St. Helena, who represents the region in Congress and started the Congressional Wine Caucus. New opportunities In 2022, to honor the workers and provide new opportunities, the Sonoma County Winegrowers founded the Fundación de la Voz de los Viñedos, or Voice of the Vineyards, a leadership academy for Sonoma County vineyard workers. The program is designed to give a cohort of employees leadership skills to become crew leaders as well as opportunities to participate in parts of the business beyond caring for the vines and harvesting grapes. “The academy is exposing the crew that does all the work in the field to more of the leadership and business aspects of running a company,” says Jim Pratt, owner of Cornerstone Certified Vineyard, who helped develop the academy. Those aspects include human relations, finance, client communications and regulatory compliance. “A lot of it is learning how to deal with winemakers and with the government,” Pratt says. The first leadership academy class included 15 workers. Last year, the program expanded to 20 participants, including three women, on par with the estimated 15% of California vineyard workers who are women. “When I started working in agriculture, there weren’t many opportunities for women,” says Anelly Reyes Jiménez, a 2022 academy participant and crew leader at Cornerstone. “Over the years, we started to see a little more support and more opportunities.”
Leading on and off the farm The leadership academy holds half-day sessions once or twice per month for which participants get paid time off to attend. So far, it has included workshops on financial literacy, conflict resolution, communications, disaster preparedness, winemaking and other skills. “All these guys work out on the farm growing the winegrapes, but not many of them get opportunities to go to a winery and see the process once the grapes have been picked,” says Dutton, who serves on the Sonoma County Farm Bureau board of directors. In the financial literacy workshop, “they got to hear about everything from filling out a rental application to starting a bank account, doing a child savings account, buying a car and sending money safely to Mexico,” says Karissa Kruse, CEO of Sonoma County Winegrowers, who is married to Dutton. “I learned a lot,” says José Ventura Vieyra García, a crew leader at Cornerstone Certified Vineyard. “They taught us about how to be leaders not just at work but also in the community and in our households.” Like many California vineyard workers, most or all of the academy participants migrated to the U.S. from Mexico, often with limited English and more years of farming experience than formal education. Vieyra García came to the U.S. six years ago from the Mexican state of Michoacán, where his family worked cultivating sorghum, wheat, chickpeas and other crops. Growers say employees such as Vieyra García have the skills to play more roles in vineyard management than many have in the past. “Anyone who runs a household knows about balancing a budget,” Pratt says. To apply their skills in a business context, he says, they just need training and opportunities. The future of California wine Participation in the leadership academy is paying off for workers as well as their employers. “The growers were really excited to be able to provide those opportunities and saw value in having more employees in their operation have those types of skills,” Kruse says. She says she hopes the program will help vineyard workers become a more visible part of the wine world. “We’re encouraging them to be a bigger voice in terms of representing our wine community and our ag community,” she says. In addition to rewarding the workers’ labor and expertise, there is optimism that programs such as the leadership academy may benefit the wine sector as a whole. “In the wine industry, consumption is flattening out and younger multicultural consumers are not necessarily adopting wine as much as we saw in the past,” says Liz Thach, professor of wine and wine management at Sonoma State University.
Clockwise from above, Vieyra García, Reyes Jiménez and Cervantes chat with Cornerstone Certified Vineyard owner Jim Pratt. Leadership academy graduate José Saldana of Jordan Vineyard & Winery interacts with Rep. Nancy Pelosi, D-San Francisco, last year in Washington, D.C. Leadership academy graduates and Sonoma County winegrape growers visit the Washington Monument. Dutton Ranch crew leader Luis Guillermo Velasquez demonstrates leaf-pulling at a vineyard near Sebastopol.
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“By having people in leadership positions who are Mexican American, that’s only going to help. The future of the industry lies in having a highly skilled workforce with leadership skills and a diverse group of consumers.” Making their voices heard The leadership academy participants have already made their voices heard in some high-profile venues. In July, through a partnership with Alaska Airlines, Sonoma County Winegrowers flew the entire academy to Washington, D.C. The workers, along with Dutton, Pratt and other growers, visited monuments, toured the Capitol and met with the Congressional Wine Caucus and other members of Congress, who sipped wines made from their grapes. “It was unforgettable,” says Luis Guillermo Velasquez, a crew leader at Dutton Ranch. José Cervantes, operations supervisor at Cornerstone, has worked in vineyards for more than three decades. “I come from a small town in Michoacán,” he says. “I never imagined being somewhere like that.” In the future, the growers plan to continue the academy, with new classes each year. Meanwhile, academy graduates are looking to use the skills they have learned to benefit a new generation of vineyard workers. “In many aspects of agriculture, you can never finish learning,” Vieyra García says. “I want to keep learning and teaching newcomers.”
Caleb Hampton champton@californiabountiful.com
Editor’s note: Some quotes in this story were translated from Spanish.
More than winegrapes: A glimpse at agriculture in Sonoma County
Sonoma County wines are known throughout the world. The county’s temperate climate, with cool nights and warm days tempered by ocean fog that drifts across the vineyards from the Pacific Coast, creates ideal growing conditions for more than 60 varieties of winegrapes. But winegrapes aren’t the only agricultural commodity Sonoma County produces. According to the most recent county crop report, Sonoma County dairies generated more than $120 million in 2021. Cheese lovers will be interested to note that the California Cheese Trail, which winds through Sonoma
County’s canyons, pastures and oak-covered hills, links nearly 30 farms and creameries. The county is also famous for its Gravenstein apples. The fruit was widely planted in Sonoma County in the 1800s. Local farmers, including the Dutton family, continue to grow it. Ripening in late July and celebrated each August at the Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol, Gravs are some of North America’s first apples to hit the market each year. Sonoma County’s other top agricultural commodities include poultry, beef cattle, vegetables, cut flowers and hay crops.
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When Carlo Guardado craves a flavorful, satisfying lunch, his favorite go-to is a bowl of beans with a tortilla. An important staple of his Mexican heritage, beans, packed with protein and fiber, are just as filling as “a big, hefty sandwich,” Guardado says. As much as he enjoys eating beans, the chef likes cooking with them even more, incorporating them into entrées, side dishes and appetizers. His two favorites are cowboy beans and dirty rice with roasted vegetables. Having owned and cooked in restaurants for about 17 years, he recently shifted to working independently, consulting for restaurants and cooking for farm dinners and special events. His preferred cooking method is over live fire on a grill he hauls to events in a chuckwagon. After living in other states and abroad, Guardado moved back to his San Diego County hometown of Fallbrook about five years ago, shortly thereafter meeting Mike Reeske of Rio Del Rey, a small farm in nearby Valley Center that now supplies him with all his beans. Reeske’s heirloom dried beans have much better flavors and textures than typical store-bought varieties, Guardado says. An heirloom bean variety is one that was grown continuously over several generations in one small area. Planted today, these beans cultivated by indigenous people still have the same distinct flavors that developed in each variety’s unique growing conditions. In contrast, the bean varieties familiar to most Americans have been bred for mass production and to create a uniform product. Story by Linda DuBois ∞ Photos by David Poller Retired science teacher aims to revive heirloom varieties The Johnny Appleseed of beans
Chef Carlo Guardado makes a pot of cowboy beans on a fire grill he hauls to events in a chuckwagon. He buys all his beans from Rio Del Rey, a San Diego County farm that grows about a dozen different heirloom varieties.
Ancient beans still thrive Beans are found in myriad cuisines from throughout the world in a wide variety of colors, shapes and flavors—and all of them have ancient roots. Mike Reeske, a scientist and heirloom bean grower in Valley Center, says all modern-day dried common beans—including black beans, kidney beans and pinto beans—were first cultivated in Mexico more than 10,000 years ago, when they were domesticated from wild plants. Over the years, variations developed as the plants went from vines to shrubs to bushes, he explains. The fact that dried beans can be stored for “upwards of many, many years” made them a practical and reliable food source. “There’s a lot of variation in beans and they’re so highly adaptable that they can grow in many different parts of the world,” Reeske says. “I’ve collected beans off the Black Sea in Northern Turkey, with origins from Chile 200 years before that.” Other well-known legumes originated thousands of years ago in other parts of the world. Lentils, garbanzos and fava beans originated in the Middle East and Mediterranean basin. Reeske shares an interesting tidbit about the black-eyed peas from West Africa. “They would take the beans and braid them into women’s hair (as decoration),” he says. Today, beans are generally enjoyed three different ways and harvested at three different stages, depending on their variety and purpose, Reeske explains. For example, garden variety green beans eaten as a vegetable with the tender pods still intact are harvested young. The next to be picked are shelly beans, such as fava or lima beans, which are mature beans that are removed from their tough, fibrous pods and eaten fresh. The last to be harvested are the dried-bean varieties, which are ready after the pod turns from green to yellow to brown, when they’ve partially dried on the plant.
Soak and simmer Guardado’s first step in preparing a dish is to soak the beans for several hours in water with a little salt. The salt adds flavor, keeps the bean skins flexible so they won’t split and helps the beans soak up water and stay soft, he explains. Soaking beans also can curb gas and other digestive discomfort by breaking down complex sugars and fibers. Studies show it may also break down compounds like phytic acid and lectins that interfere with nutrient absorption. Once the beans are thoroughly soaked, Guardado discards the salt water and transfers the beans into cold, fresh water and brings them to a gentle simmer, which he says results in a better texture than boiling. He’ll often add spices and other ingredients like bay leaf, fresh thyme, crushed garlic, grilled onion, smoked chilies and oregano. When the beans are soft, he finishes them off with a splash of vinegar, which “brightens the flavor.” He likes to use a mix of bean varieties with different sizes, flavors and textures in one pot. “Some stay firm and some get very creamy. Some are sweeter than others and some have rich notes of chocolate. The flavor profile of these is very nuanced. But the cool thing is when you put them all together, they make a very good, flavorful broth,” he says. “Some people that come to these dinners don’t eat beans ever,” he adds. So, he’ll often prepare a bean soup appetizer to get them to “try just a couple of bites and maybe change their opinion and then add them to their diet.” The introduction also helps start a conversation with them about his culture’s Alta California cuisine and the farmer who grows his beans. He likes sharing the story of Mike Reeske, a man of many talents dedicated to finding, cultivating and spreading the word about the beans once eaten by native tribes.
Above left, dried beans are ready for harvest after the pod turns from green to yellow to brown. Above, Enrique and Tino Muñoz harvest beans at Rio Del Rey farm. Above right and far right, Enrique Muñoz puts the beans into a thresher that separates the beans from the pods. At immediate right, Tino Muñoz puts beans into a machine that rids them of stems and rocks.
These include two lima-type beans, about seven common beans (pinto type) and five high-protein tepary beans. “Tepary beans grow from one rainfall in the desert in poor soil and high temperatures,” Reeske says, adding these legumes show promise as a sustainable protein source in a hotter, drier climate. The Reeskes also developed a new variety of common bean, Anazape. About five years ago, out of 800 pounds of their Anasazi beans, they discovered about 25 unusual-looking seeds. Even though it’s rare for beans to cross-pollinate, the Reeskes surmised from the beans’ appearance that bees had brought pollen from their nearby field of Rio Zapes and created a hybrid. They planted the seeds and got identical beans the next year and have been growing them ever since. “We did a tasting with 15 of some of the top chefs in San Diego County, and 13 out of 15 voted that bean No. 1,” Reeske says.
Post-retirement mission It wasn’t until he retired from a long career as a high school science teacher in 2008 that Reeske turned his attention to farming. He brings to it varied experiences and influences. A researcher and organic chemist, he’s co-authored books and developed educational materials dealing with science and sustainability and created programs to teach youths and adults about their local environments. He also was influenced by his parents, who were orange farmers and restaurant owners. An article about heirloom beans inspired Reeske and his wife, Chris, to put in a few plants on their 2 1/2-acre property. “I couldn’t believe how tasty they were,” he says of their first crop. So, the next year, they planted even more. Knowing that few farmers cultivate heirloom beans, they saw a void and officially launched Rio Del Rey in 2013. They now grow from 10 to 15 different varieties per year on 7 acres.
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At left, Chris and Mike Reeske hand-sort the beans and discard those with imperfections before bagging and labeling them for sale. “We’re the bean counters,” Mike Reeske says with a laugh, explaining that there is no nearby facility that can do this final, quality-control step.
Heirlooms’ challenges While deeply committed to organic heirloom bean revival, Reeske says it has its challenges. About 90% of heirloom beans have bean common mosaic virus, which inhibits photosynthesis, leading to small yields and, therefore, higher prices for consumers. The process is also labor-intensive. People, not machines, do the soil preparation, fertilizing, laying of drip irrigation and planting in the spring. In the late summer, they hand- harvest the partially dried beans with sickles and throw them into piles to finish drying. And because each bean variety matures at a different rate, harvesting must be done intermittently from about mid-August to late September. Then there are relentless weeds. Last year, Reeske lost about 80% of his typical crop because he couldn’t find enough workers for this task, forcing him to temporarily halt bean sales on the Rio Del Rey website. Once the harvested beans are completely dried, a small tractor-pulled thresher from Turkey shakes the beans from the pods. When cleaned of dirt and debris, the beans are put in a freezer to kill any weevils, a common bean pest. Then the Reeskes hand-sort them to pick out beans that are split, moldy or otherwise less than perfect before bagging and labeling them for sale. The packages go to specialty markets and are available on the Rio Del Rey website. Reeske does his own deliveries to restaurants rather than hiring a distributor. “I decided it was more fun for me to go and meet the chefs,” he says. All those steps, though, are only part of his work.
Researcher and advocate Drawing on his science background, Reeske is working with University of California researchers to learn what varieties of beans are naturally resistant to pests and diseases and what will grow best in the local soils. He’s also working on a program to restore the cultivation of certain tribal heirloom beans that are an important part of ceremonies and traditions. And he’s an heirloom bean advocate, trying to convince more small farmers to try growing them. Even though they aren’t a big moneymaker, heirloom beans add nitrogen to the soil, giving farmers “free fertilizer,” he says. He’s also working to create farm tours and other educational opportunities for the public to get more people to eat beans more often, emphasizing they are an economical, sustainable source of protein, with numerous health benefits. “For instance, I’m a Type 2 diabetic and after I started eating beans three times a week, I gave up one of my meds because beans stabilize blood sugar,” he says. “I also want to educate people that all beans don’t taste the same, and there’s a whole variety of flavors you can experience.” Reeske chuckles as he sums up his passion. “I guess I’m like the Johnny Appleseed of beans.”
Linda DuBois ldubois@californiabountiful.com
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book reviews
Sacramento Eats: Recipes from the Capital Region’s Favorite Restaurants by Sacramento Bee food and drink reporter Benjy Egel is 160 pages of main dishes, soups, appetizers, salads, desserts and cocktails from some
Six California Kitchens: A Collection of Recipes, Stories, and Cooking Lessons from a Pioneer of California Cuisine has 115 farm-to-table recipes and stories from the late Sally Schmitt, the pioneering female chef and founder of the French Laundry in Napa Valley. Schmitt, who died at age 90 in 2022, takes readers through the six kitchens where she learned to cook and honed her skills. A fascinating read just as a book, this story-rich cookbook should inspire home and aspiring chefs aiming to cook locally and seasonally. From Chronicle Books. The Hands-On Ranch Book by rancher and mom of four girls, Mary Heffernan, teaches kids practical life skills that will be handy around a ranch—or anywhere. The pages are full of instructions on things such as starting and tending to a garden; making bread, maple syrup candles and dyes; tying knots; and taking care of horses, chickens and other livestock. While aimed at grades four to six, the book should be fun and educational for the whole family and encourage everyone to get outside and try new things. From Revell of Baker Publishing Group.
of the area’s most well-known and loved eateries. The dishes are influenced by the city’s diverse cultures and cuisines as well as its location in the middle of one of the richest agriculture regions in the world. The recipes represent both restaurant fan favorites and dishes chefs prepare at home for their own families. From Pediment Publishing, presented by The Sacramento Bee. California Bountiful’s Book Reviews highlight books related to rural living and California agriculture. To suggest a book, email cbmagazine@californiabountiful.com.
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