Ancient beans still thrive Beans are found in myriad cuisines from throughout the world in a wide variety of colors, shapes and flavors—and all of them have ancient roots. Mike Reeske, a scientist and heirloom bean grower in Valley Center, says all modern-day dried common beans—including black beans, kidney beans and pinto beans—were first cultivated in Mexico more than 10,000 years ago, when they were domesticated from wild plants. Over the years, variations developed as the plants went from vines to shrubs to bushes, he explains. The fact that dried beans can be stored for “upwards of many, many years” made them a practical and reliable food source. “There’s a lot of variation in beans and they’re so highly adaptable that they can grow in many different parts of the world,” Reeske says. “I’ve collected beans off the Black Sea in Northern Turkey, with origins from Chile 200 years before that.” Other well-known legumes originated thousands of years ago in other parts of the world. Lentils, garbanzos and fava beans originated in the Middle East and Mediterranean basin. Reeske shares an interesting tidbit about the black-eyed peas from West Africa. “They would take the beans and braid them into women’s hair (as decoration),” he says. Today, beans are generally enjoyed three different ways and harvested at three different stages, depending on their variety and purpose, Reeske explains. For example, garden variety green beans eaten as a vegetable with the tender pods still intact are harvested young. The next to be picked are shelly beans, such as fava or lima beans, which are mature beans that are removed from their tough, fibrous pods and eaten fresh. The last to be harvested are the dried-bean varieties, which are ready after the pod turns from green to yellow to brown, when they’ve partially dried on the plant.
Soak and simmer Guardado’s first step in preparing a dish is to soak the beans for several hours in water with a little salt. The salt adds flavor, keeps the bean skins flexible so they won’t split and helps the beans soak up water and stay soft, he explains. Soaking beans also can curb gas and other digestive discomfort by breaking down complex sugars and fibers. Studies show it may also break down compounds like phytic acid and lectins that interfere with nutrient absorption. Once the beans are thoroughly soaked, Guardado discards the salt water and transfers the beans into cold, fresh water and brings them to a gentle simmer, which he says results in a better texture than boiling. He’ll often add spices and other ingredients like bay leaf, fresh thyme, crushed garlic, grilled onion, smoked chilies and oregano. When the beans are soft, he finishes them off with a splash of vinegar, which “brightens the flavor.” He likes to use a mix of bean varieties with different sizes, flavors and textures in one pot. “Some stay firm and some get very creamy. Some are sweeter than others and some have rich notes of chocolate. The flavor profile of these is very nuanced. But the cool thing is when you put them all together, they make a very good, flavorful broth,” he says. “Some people that come to these dinners don’t eat beans ever,” he adds. So, he’ll often prepare a bean soup appetizer to get them to “try just a couple of bites and maybe change their opinion and then add them to their diet.” The introduction also helps start a conversation with them about his culture’s Alta California cuisine and the farmer who grows his beans. He likes sharing the story of Mike Reeske, a man of many talents dedicated to finding, cultivating and spreading the word about the beans once eaten by native tribes.
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