popularity should take off. “People think Japanese Wagyu is a very fancy meat. And, yeah, when you take a bite, it melts in your mouth, but you can’t eat a whole steak. That’s just too much fat. So, if people want to enjoy like 1 pound of steak, then the Japanese Wagyu-Angus cross is the best,” Uezu says. However, they both caution that in the U.S., there is so much variation in the quality of meat advertised as Wagyu that people need to be savvy when making purchases. For example, a restaurant’s “Wagyu burger” sold in the same price range as other burgers may contain only a small fraction of actual Wagyu. “Consumers need to find a good source,” Uezu says. Fiorentino adds that as people become more educated about the different types of Wagyu and that it’s higher in healthful monounsaturated fat and lower in saturated fat than other beef, they’ll be more likely to try it. “I think the entire Wagyu market is only just beginning,” Fiorentino says, “and I really think that it’s here to stay.”
Fans of American Wagyu say it may be the perfect meat for many steak lovers: richly flavorful and juicy like Japanese Wagyu, but light enough to eat as a main course.
American Wagyu’s future Masami’s meat is sold wholesale to retail outlets, butcher shops and restaurants such as SingleThread in Healdsburg, NIKU X in Los Angeles and Quince in San Francisco. Uezu agrees with Fiorentino that American Wagyu is perfect for a steak meal, and once people try it, its
Linda DuBois ldubois@californiabountiful.com
Wagyu special What makes
Four breeds are considered Wagyu beef, each originating from different regions in Japan: Japanese Black, Japanese Brown, Japanese Shorthorn and Japanese Polled, with Japanese Black being the most famous and sought-after. During the 1990s, there were several importations of Wagyu males and females into the U.S. and Wagyu genetics around the world today outside of Japan can be traced to these imports, according to the association. Later in the 1990s, the Japanese government banned further exports of Wagyu genetics (semen, embryos and live cattle) and declared Wagyu a national living treasure. The limited supply helps drive up the cost, but Wagyu’s grading also affects its price. Marbling, color and texture all affect grading, with a system ranging from A1 to the highest grade, A5. Depending on the grade, prices can range from under $35 to more than $200 for one 10- to 12-ounce steak.
“Just what is Wagyu?” is a question Nick Fiorentino, the owner of The Meatery retail meat company in San Diego, gets from steak lovers who are unfamiliar with this delicious but pricey beef. He enjoys answering their questions and helping them learn about the history and benefits of this meat derived from native Japanese cattle. The term “Wagyu” literally means “Japanese cow,” Fiorentino says. Its famous succulent marbling is the result of a centuries-old practice of selective breeding and the labor-intensive and time-consuming process of raising the cattle, he says. According to the American Wagyu Association, Wagyu genetics date back about 35,000 years. They were originally draft animals used in agriculture, selected for their physical endurance. This favored animals with more intra-muscular fat cells that provided them with a readily available energy source.
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Spring 2024
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