California Bountiful - September-October 2021 Issue

Ag Alert is the newspaper of the California Farm Bureau Federation, reaching Farm Bureau agricultural and collegiate members. Agricultural members are owners and decision-makers on California farms and ranches. The California Farm Bureau Federation is a non-governmental, non-profit, voluntary membership organization whose purpose is to protect and promote agricultural interests throughout the state of California and to find solutions to the problems of the farm, the farm home and the rural community. Farm Bureau is California's largest farm organization, comprised of 53 county Farm Bureaus. Farm Bureau strives to protect and improve the ability of farmers and ranchers engaged in production agriculture to provide a reliable supply of food and fiber through responsible stewardship of California's resources.

Mexico-inspired recipes from horchata to empanadas

Hearst family beef delivered to the door

Invite the birds for a drink with a DIY birdbath

September/October 2021

Edible FLOWERS Blooms add flavor and flair

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September/October 2021

Features

4 From the editors 5 A la carte 37 Book reviews 38 Now from Nationwide 39 Gardening 42 Ask a farmer 44 Take 5 46 It’s a bountiful life

Going the way of the goat Woman’s soap-making venture becomes family enterprise. Golden future for kiwifruit California farmers think shoppers will be sweet on new varieties. Raised by the castle Partnership brings Hearst legacy and grass-fed beef directly to doorsteps. Growing young artists Agriculture sows story seeds in students’ imaginations. The root of happiness Couple celebrates community and each other through culinary partnership.

Mexico-inspired recipes from horchata to empanadas

Hearst family beef delivered to the door

Invite the birds for a drink with a DIY birdbath

September/October 2021

ON THE COVER: Edible flowers add flavor and flair. Find out how they’re grown and used. Story on Page 16.

Edible FLOWERS Blooms add flavor and flair

Photo: Rob Andrew

californiabountiful.com 3

From the editors

VOLUME 44 • ISSUE 5

Melanie Duval Chief Marketing Officer Peter Hecht Chief Editor of Publications

Barbara Arciero Managing Editor Linda DuBois Assistant Editor

Kevin Hecteman, Ching Lee, Christine Souza, Tracy Sellers, Matt Craggs, Judy Farah, Cyndee Fontana-Ott, Pat Rubin, Shannon Springmeyer Writers

Rob Andrew, Christian Parley, Tomas Ovalle, Frank Rebelo

Growing great ideas

Photographers Karin Bakotich Design Services Manager

Jessica Cook Paula Erath Graphic Artists

Brock Tessandori Advertising Sales Chris Tedesco Manager, Business Development

Farming and ranching require creative people who can be nimble and innovative when opportunity presents itself. In this issue of California Bountiful , we share stories of several farmers who saw potential in ideas and ran with them, growing their sparks of imagination into successful enterprises. Food beautifully presented on a plate can transform a simple meal into an artistic experience. Learn how a farmer behind bursts of culinary color turned his nursery of vegetable seedlings into the nation’s largest producer of edible f lowers and microgreens. David Sasuga’s business idea blossomed after a chef visited his nursery and requested tiny basil seedlings to garnish plates. Jill Spruance wanted something to fill her empty land and empty-nest years. So, she bought a few dairy goats. Ending up with too much milk to drink, she used the excess to make soap that gave her and her family smooth skin—and the impetus for a new business. Always on the lookout for something new and unusual to catch the eye of shoppers, farmer Doug Phillips began growing red kiwifruit. The variety has trouble thriving in the Central Valley heat, but he’s found some creative solutions. Former restaurateurs Jensen and Grace Lorenzen combined a timely high-demand service with a legendary piece of California history. The couple’s quest for quality meats for their family ended up with a partnership with Hearst Ranch to offer home deliveries. Even the creativity of kids is showcased in this issue. Read about young writers and theirwinningentries in theCaliforniaFoundation forAgriculture in the Classroom’s annual “Imagine this…” StoryWriting Contest. We hope you find inspiration in the following pages—along with ideas for newways you can enjoy the bounty that is California agriculture.

Contact us: California Bountiful, 2600 River Plaza Drive, Sacramento, CA 95833 916-561-5552 cbmagazine@californiabountiful.com californiabountiful.com in California and by subscription. To subscribe, call 916-561-5552 or go to californiabountiful.com/subscribe. Subscribe: California Bountiful is available to associate members of county FarmBureaus

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California Bountiful ® (ISSN 0194-5165) is published bimonthly by the California Farm Bureau Federation, 2600 River Plaza Drive, Sacramento, CA 95833 (telephone: 916-561‑5552). Non-profit periodicals postage paid at Sacramento, California. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to California Bountiful, 2600 River Plaza Drive, Sacramento, CA 95833. The California Farm Bureau Federation does not assume responsibility for statements by advertisers or for products advertised in California Bountiful, nor does the Federation assume responsibility for statements or expressions of opinion other than in editorials or in articles showing authorship by an officer, director or employee of the California Farm Bureau Federation or its affiliates.

September/October 2021

a la carte

Contest deadlines approach From Fido to photos: Time is ticking if you’d like to enter two of the California Farm Bureau’s most popular contests. Cash prizes totaling more than $4,000 are at stake in these members-only competitions. The deadline for the second annual FarmDog Contest, which recognizes dogs that work alongside California farmers and ranchers, is Sept. 17. The 40th annual Photo Contest, which challenges amateur photographers to capture images of California’s agricultural bounty, closes Sept. 30. Find details for both at cfbf.com.

for the price of one Two gifts It’s not too early to start your holiday shopping. Here’s a suggestion: Give the year-round gift of California Bountiful . An annual subscription costs only $9.99 and includes six beautiful bimonthly issues and exclusive, subscriber-only digital content. What’s more, your purchase helps support farmers and ranchers in California. It’s like giving two gifts for the price of one! Order at californiabountiful.com.

Another reason to eat California prunes A recent study published in the Journal of the Orthopedic Research Society indicates a diet high in prunes prevents bone loss associated with spinal cord injury, while also restoring a fraction of the bone lost after such injury. “Healthy bones come from the right exercise and diet,” said Leslie Bonci, a registered dietitian and consultant for the California Prune Board. “Prunes are particularly rich in bone-building minerals,” including boron and manganese.

californiabountiful.com 5

the way of the goat Going

September/October 2021

Woman’s soap-making venture becomes family enterprise

Story by Cyndee Fontana-Ott • Photos by Tomas Ovalle

About10years ago, Jill Spruancewas anempty-nesterwithanenterprising spirit and 5 acres of land in the winding Fresno County foothills. She and her winemaker husband, Kim, wanted to put that acreage to good use. So she bought a fewdairy goats, with the idea of having plenty of freshmilk for the couple. Soon, however, theywere awash inmilk. And Jill, who always dreamed of starting a side business, began researching what to do with the extra milk (besides make cheese). The answer was soap. “At the time, I didn’t even knowyou couldmake soapwith goat’smilk,” said Jill, a bubbly bundle of energy and action. But over more than a few months, she learned tomake soap—andbothhalves of the couplewere sold on the better feel of their skin. “Honest to goodness, the first daywe used it our skinwas unbelievable,” she said. “Theonly reasonwas the soap. So I said tomyhusband, ‘This could be the product, the thing that we were looking to do.’” Now, this one-time side venture is a full-time family enterprise in the small community of Prather, about 20 miles northeast of metropolitan Fresno. Basilwood Farm produces all-natural lines of goat’s milk soap, lotions, bathbombs, scrubs andmore that havewon fans across the country. It all starts with goat’smilk The company has a robust online presence in addition to an on-site farm store and roughly 35 to 40 wholesale accounts. It has overtaken the Spruance homestead (now the store) and convertedKim fromwinemaker to goat milker, bath bombmastermind and general manager of the farm. Daughter Shelby Roberts works in production and teaches the occasional cheese-making class, while daughter Morgan Condie takes care of bookkeeping. Even the grandkids help, in the form of inspiration.

Jill Spruance runs Basilwood Farm in Fresno County with her husband, Kim. The small, family-owned farm produces goat’s milk soap and other goodies.

Jill Spruance mixes soap ingredients, left, which include milk from her goats, right. Below, after pouring the soap into a wooden mold, she creates a decorative swirl before the soap begins to cure.

The spunky goat micro-herd or tribe has grown from two tomore than a dozen “girls” withwhimsical names such as Maid Marian, Lady and Cricket. These are the frontlinemembers of the team—and the literal inspiration behind the companymotto: “Go theWay of theGoat.” Jill is the driving force behind Basilwood Farm. The Spruances have lived on the rolling acreage for about 26 years, and it is the place where she homeschooled their two daughters while Kim worked as a winemaker. Jill serves as chief soap-maker, marketing guru and creator behind products that blend goat’smilkwith other natural ingredients such as cocoa butter, locally sourced olive oil, coconut oil and even coffee butter. Each bar of soap contains about 20%goat’s milk, and the website points out that goat’s milk contains natural alpha-hydroxy acids—a common ingredient in some facial creams and moisturizers—that help slough off dead skin and encourage the growth of new cells. Goat’s milk also is rich in a variety of vitamins that help heal the skin and pair well with natural oils and butters. Fromsoaps to bath bombs The heart of Basilwood Farm manufacturing is the “soap room,” an airy workshop where colorfully swirled bars sit curing or parked for future sale alongside rows and rows of products on metal shelves. The most important

book here is the green binder titled “Jill’s Recipes.” Those formulas unfold in diverse lines such as Caeden’s Choice, a fragrance- and color-free bar named for the Spruances’ first grandson; California Dreamin’, a swirl of bright colors with hints of sage and mint; and Glamping, a blend of pine and citrus. New scents are introduced regularly, such as Birchwood (woodsy) and GrandpaMac’s Pipe Tobacco and Cashmere (named for the scent memory of Jill’s grandfather). She uses a cold process method of soap-making that relies on lye to produce the necessary chemical reaction, known as saponification. Lye (which disappears in the process), oils or butters, raw goat’s milk and any color and scent are combined and then poured intowoodenmolds, artfully stirred to produce decorative swirls in some varieties and cured or hardened for as long as a month. Bars are cut, edged or smoothed and then ready for packaging and sale. On “megabatch” days, Jill and Shelby typically produce 640 to 720 bars of soap, an efficiency that has helped them keep pace with demand. Shelbymakes the other products except for bath bombs, which are Kim’s province. “Bath bombs are persnickety,” Jill said. “That’s why I make soap.” Kim holds a bachelor’s degree in viticulture and enology from California State University, Fresno. His

September/October 2021

Kim Spruance cuts freshly made soap, above. Below, soap is stored in the soap room. Bottom, visitors Maryam and Tracy Webster compare soap fragrances.

knowledge of chemistry came in handy in the science of developing bath bombs, those spheres that fizz and dissolve when tossed into water. At the beginning, it took about 400 trials to find the right balance of ingredients. Flawed bath bombs can fail to stick together, land without fizzing in the water or melt prematurely before touching a drop. Then there are the bubbles and skin feel to consider. “It probably took me three weeks, a month, to get it tuned in how I wanted it,” Kim said. “I take a lot of baths.” Growing the business Every morning, the Basilwood crew prints customer orders, pulls products and then double-checks everything. Jill writes a personal note—something appropriate for the season—before each order is boxed for the post office. All the processes represent a serious investment in hard work and homework. Before launching the business, Jill researched and practiced soap-making for months while also building awareness on social media. “By the time we started selling product, people were interested in it,” she said. Jill also went on the road to various shows and

pop-up events. Anyonewhodidn’t knowmuch about goat’s milk soap usually left her table with an education and a bar of soap.

From left, Tom Webster, his son Nathan, 8, daughter Maryam, 13, and wife Tracy of Bakersfield enjoy feeding the goats while visiting Basilwood Farm on their way home from a stay at a nearby Airbnb.

Then a segment on local television exploded the business. “I had to go buy more goats, because I didn’t have enoughmilk to fill the orders,” Jill said. “It was a blessing and a curse all at the same time.” Eventually, the growing need for farm store space and storage forced the Spruances to abandon themain house. “Wewere down to the den, one bedroomand the kitchen,” she said, so they upsized the business by moving to a smaller home on the property. Putting out thewelcomemat In pre-COVID days, the farm was a busy hub for all sorts of pop-up events, field trips and workshops for making bath bombs, cheese and more. Those were largely canceled as the pandemic set in, and even the farm store closed for a time. There is a greater sense of normalcy now with the return of pop-up events and the lure of the farm store. For example, the Webster family—fresh from a stay at

an area Airbnb—stopped by one Saturday as they traveled home to Bakersfield. The foursome—father Tom, mother Tracy, daughter Maryam and son Nathan—browsed leisurely and sampled scents before settling on products chosen specifically for each family member and skin type. Goat’smilk products “are really goodmoisturizers and they don’t give you a lot of buildup on your skin,” Tracy said just before the family headed out to meet the goats. On the farm, the Basilwood teamhopes everyone feels as comfortable as a friend or family member. “We have always looked at this as sort of sharing our property,” Jill said. “People get that feeling when they’re here—they don’t feel like they’re intruding. The farm store is our old house, so you kind of feel like you’re welcoming people into your home.”

Cyndee Fontana-Ott cbmagazine@californiabountiful.com

MORE ONLINE Learn more about goats and their playful and sneaky personalities. Find this and more at californiabountiful.com.

September/October 2021

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Golden future for kiwifr

September/October 2021

California farmers think shoppers will be sweet on new varieties

ruit

Story by Ching Lee • Farm photos by Christian Parley

Thanks to year-round visibility in many produce aisles, kiwifruit has come a long way from its beginnings as the Chinese gooseberry and its status as a rare fruit grown mostly by backyard hobbyists. Now that the green-f leshed fruit has become a familiar item in grocery stores, Tulare County farmer Doug Phillips is working to expand the spectrum. He’s been growing kiwifruit for decades, always looking for newer varieties he could bring to market, including ones with gold and red f lesh, which he described as sweeter than the standard, green-f leshed Hayward, the most popular commercial variety. His newest plantings include a kiwifruit with golden f lesh and a red starburst center, the vines of which are f inal ly coming into ful l production, with more fruit reaching more markets this year. The hope, Phillips said, is that greater availability of new and different kiwifruit varieties would catch the eye of shoppers, generate market buzz and boost sales. Ripe for growth “We think that by introducing some new red and gold (varieties) to the traditional green category, it’s going to create more excitement and people may be more inclined to try kiwis,” he said. Pointing to a trend already taking place in New Zealand, Phillips said he foresees more new varieties of red and gold kiwifruit coming to the produce section, along with new and sweeter green-f leshed varieties. California farmers produce nearly all the U.S.-grown kiwifruit crop on about 4,400 acres in the Central Valley. The state’s first plantings date to the 1930s, when the U.S. Department of Agriculture Plant Introduction Station in Chico grew experimental vines, according to the University of California, Davis. It was not until the late 1970s that Ca l i fornia farmers produced their f irst signi f icant commercial crop, UC noted.

californiabountiful.com 13

Tulare County farmer Doug Phillips, left, spent years learning how to grow “red kiwis,” right, including erecting shade structures, above, because the plants don’t do well in the San Joaquin Valley’s heat and low humidity.

Even though kiwifruit is native to China, it was New Zealand that first commercialized it in the 1940s, with exports of “Chinese gooseberries” making their way to U.S. shores as early as the late 1950s, UC reported. The late Ca l i fornia produce marketer Frieda Caplan is often credited with renaming the fruit after New Zealand’s similarly fuzzy f lightless national bird when her Orange County-based company began selling kiwifruit in 1962. Phillips planted his f irst kiwifruit in 1973, after seeing his neighbor’s successful backyard plantings, which had been growing since the 1960s “as a kind of rare fruit deal,” he said. “They were beautiful—loadedwith fruit,” he described the plants, “and we thought, man, that’s for us.” Perfecting newvarieties Phillips ventured into growing different kiwifruit varieties in the late 1990s, when he heard about gold- f leshed kiwifruit fromNew Zealand, which he tried to grow in 2000. He found they weren’t suitable for the state’s climate and went back to focusing on greens. A few years later, he tried growing red-f leshed kiwifruit from China, bringing back plant materials to begin experimental plantings. Those varieties don’t like the San Joaquin Valley’s heat and low humidity, he said,

and it’s taken him years to learn how to grow them better with different techniques, including through i rr igat ion, erect ing shade st ructures and using specialized equipment to help pollinate the crop. Bees, he noted, don’t seem to like the shade structures, necessitating artificial means to blow adequate amounts of pollen into each f lower so the plants can produce “maximum (fruit) size and yield.” Af ter many attempts, Phi l lips said he’s f inal ly narrowed down a handful of “really good” varieties of red and gold kiwifruit that can grow well in the state and have good taste, size and shelf life. He markets the reds as “golden red kiwis” or simply “red kiwis.” Getting to this point, he said, has not been easy, noting it took him at least 15 years of “playing around” with different growing techniques and cultural practices to improve production of his red kiwifruit. Other farmers also are bringing different kiwifruit varieties to the market and increasing plantings. For example, farmer Jerry Kliewer of Reedley, whose family has been growing kiwifruit since 1973, currently grows a plus-sized kiwifruit variety from Greece that’s 50% larger than the Hayward. Marketed as the Mega Kiwi, the variety made its market debut in 2017. The state’s largest kiwifruit grower, Pasadena-based Sun Pacific, grows the crop in the San Joaquin Valley

September/October 2021

The fruit is picked and packed by hand, and will reach more markets this year as the vines come into full production.

and in Chile, and says it plans to triple its production by 2025. Known for its Cuties mandarins, Sun Pacific markets kiwifruit under the brand Mighties, which the company launched in 2014. The grower-shipper-packer made its first investment in kiwifruit farms in 1997 and says it now grows 50% of the North American supply. At Phillips Farms, which operates a packing facility in Visalia, most of the kiwifruit crop is harvested in October and early November, though red and gold varieties begin in mid- and late September. Green-f leshed California kiwifruit can remain in supply as late as June or July. Phillips noted the red fruit doesn’t store as well as the greens, but he said he’s learning better methods and thinks he can extend their availability into January or later. In addition to kiwifruit, the farm also grows a variety of traditional citrus and stone fruits, though Phillips said he chooses to take “a harder path to try to figure out how to grow some of these new, exciting things” such as pluots, cherry plums, peacotums, finger limes and Buddha’s hand. “That’s been my history of farming: I’ve always tried different stuff,” he said. “It’s a challenge, but it’s fun.”

Ching Lee clee@californiabountiful.com

Chef Eric Lee is ready to serve an artfully presented plate of sashimi with tasty and beautiful flowers from Fresh Origins farm in San Marcos.

September/October 2021

feast A for t he eye s

Herb and flower crystals from Fresh Origins farm create a pop of color to visually stimulate the appetites of diners at Umami Japanese restaurant in San Marcos.

Edible flowers add flavor and flair

Story by Judy Farah and Shannon Springmeyer • Photos by Rob Andrew

Like most of us, patrons of Umami Japanese restaurant in San Marcos devour a dish with their eyes before they ever take a bite. That’s why presentation is of utmost importance to co-owner and Executive Chef Eric Lee. “We want our food to look delicious and vibrant. We want the first sensation upon presentation to be a delight,” Lee said. “That sets the stage for tasting the various f lavors.” One way the chef and his staff achieve that “wow” factor is by utilizing a unique type of ingredient. It’s one undeniably associated with beauty, but often a surprise to find on the plate: f lowers.

californiabountiful.com 17

A garden of flavors “Ed ible f lower s make for bold and excit ing presentations,” Lee said. “Not only that, they contribute great f lavor” to the restaurant’s sushi and California- inf luenced Japanese dishes. Micro Marigold blooms, for example, impart bright, citrusy notes to the eatery’s award-winning Sushi Muffin, a seafood creation one Yelp reviewer called “a big bite of amazing f lavor.” Micro Orchid, instead, tastes like cucumber and often adorns sushi rolls, whereas lavender f lowers are intensely aromatic and f lavorful, Lee said. Bright sprays of amaranth blossom enliven the Spicy Tuna Canape. And an array of microgreens—the young, nutrient-rich seedlings of vegetables and herbs—complete the f loral look while packing in flavor. A generous portion of Micro Cilantro, for example, is served atop the steamed bao bun and soy-braised pork belly of the Piggy Bao. “The whole sensory experience begins with the presentation and ends, hopefully, with fulfilment of the promise that what looks good wi l l indeed be delicious,” Lee said. For these essential components in creating edible masterpieces, Lee doesn’t have to look far. The nation’s leading producer of edible f lowers and microgreens, Fresh Origins, is located a few miles away.

David Sasuga, above, who grows a wide variety of edible flowers at his farm, Fresh Origins, picks a basil blossom. Employee Juan Vazquez Merion, below, harvests squash blossoms. Alma Montalbo, right, packs nasturtium flowers.

September/October 2021

nutty, spicy, sweet, melony. The f lowers are harvested at maturity and used as décor in baking or as a creative addition to salads, fresh f ish, mixed drinks, tea, vinegars, dressings, cheeses and butter, and can be scattered as a topping for just about any type of food. Sasuga acknowledges most people don’t realize many f lowers are edible. “It is often overlooked that broccoli, cabbage and even artichokes are actually f lowers. Many common garden f lowers are indeed edible,” he said. Flowers as food Sasuga was working at his nursery, growing tomato and other specialty vegetable seedlings for farmers and ranchers in the mid-1990s, when a chef from an upscale restaurant came in for tomatoes and was excited by the tiny basil seedlings he saw. He wanted to use the micro- sized plants to garnish his plates and add a touch of f lavor. Sasuga was skeptical at first, he said, wondering why the chef wouldn’t want full-sized basil. “But it was their unique, micro-size appearance that was special and appealing. This was what excited him most and was the spark that was the inspiration for growing these tiny greens for restaurants,” said Sasuga, who transitioned his nursery from vegetables to

A farm-to-fork family affair Though many chefs and farmers in this particularly fertile state enjoy close working relationships, the ties between Lee and the founder and an owner of Fresh Origins, David Sasuga, run deeper than most: They happen to be brothers-in-law (Sasuga is married to Lee’s sister, Julie), as well as former colleagues. When Lee first moved to California from South Korea in 2010, he found a foothold working with Sasuga at Fresh Origins, before deciding to pursue a culinary career and working in several Japanese restaurants to learn the business. Lee and his wife, Jenny, opened Umami in 2018, with support from his sister and Sasuga, who remains a trusted advisor. Sasuga is no stranger to the restaurant business. The tiny, yet colorful and f lavorful f lowers he grows on his 80-acre farm in San Marcos are featured on the menus of restaurants and resorts across North America and the Caribbean. That adds up to lots of edible f lowers. In addition to outdoor gardens, 32 acres of greenhouses are employed in Fresh Origins’ year-round operation. On these grounds, about 60 different varieties of f l ow e r s a r e g r ow n , i n c l u d i n g m a r i g o l d , chr ysanthemum, pansy, viola , na stur t ium and orchid. They of fer a variety of f lavors: peppery,

Among the flowers grown by Sasuga are Micro Marigolds, above, and Sage Flower Monet Pink, left. Sasuga grows marigolds in pots, right, rather than in the ground because he finds that method easier to manage.

David Sasuga grows about 60 varieties of edible flowers at his San Diego County farm. He describes the flavors present in some common garden flowers: Flowers wit h flavor

microgreens and edible f lowers. To grow his business, Sasuga traveled widely, meeting chefs and distributors and going to trade shows. He brought samples of the f lowers with him for chefs to experiment with. “The more I offered, the more excited my customers were. The chefs were doing amazing things with my product,” he said. “This led me to start growing as many edible f lowers as I could find, in order to have the best selection possible.” Business is blooming The f lowers at Fresh Origins grow in pots both outdoors and inside the greenhouses and are watered through drip irrigation. They are picked by hand six days a week, packed in insulated boxes with cold packs and shipped immediately, usually arriving at their destination the next morning. Sasuga said he believes the warm, sunnyMediterranean climate of the SanDiego regionmakes a big difference in the taste and appeal of his products. “The day length, intensity of the sunlight, outside temperature and outside humidity all play a major role in how plants grow inside the greenhouse,” he said. Because of the climate, Sasuga said the edible f lowers have a concentrated range of color and f lavor. Fresh Or igins ha s developed a new of fer ing:

Marigold Nasturtium Slightly bitter and citrusy Peppery and sweet

Orchid

Hints of cucumber and melon

Lavender

Concentrated floral taste

Begonia

Tart

Unami Japanese restaurant presents spicy tuna canapes accented with microgreens, yellow violas and a sprig of bright-red FireStix.

flowers of some herbs have more intense flavor than their leaves:

basil

mint

chive

rosemary

September/October 2021

MicroFlowers. The tiniest of the edible flowers, they are often used for pastries and other delicate desserts, in addition to adorning seafood dishes at Lee’s restaurant. There are also the FireStix, sprays of bold amaranth with f lame-like blossoms that add height and f lair to dishes and cocktails. Another product offered by Fresh Origins is shelf- stable Flower Crystals—a crunchy, highly concentrated, granular form of flowers. Sasuga said they are harvested at the peak of f lavor and color, and combined with pure cane sugar to sprinkle on food displays or line the rim of a cocktail glass. “We are constantly trialing new ideas and new varieties, most of which don’t pan out, but we do enough to come up with a regular stream of unique items for the chefs,” Sasuga said. The work he does on the farm makes Lee’s job of bringing delight to his patrons that much easier. “It is very difficult and complicated work to operate a restaurant, but there is so much satisfaction gained from the positive response we get from serving our customers,” Lee said. “We can only exist if our customers have a great experience, and that al l begins with beautiful food.”

A summer roll and, below, a

poke bowl with purple and white pansies and pink Micro Star Flowers are served.

Judy Farah and Shannon Springmeyer cbmagazine@californiabountiful.com

Raised castle by the

Story by Christine Souza Ranch photos courtesy of Hearst Corp. • Larder Meat Co. photos by Jennifer Olson Partnership brings Hearst legacy and grass-fed beef directly to doorsteps

After leaving the restaurant business about seven years ago, Jensen and Grace Lorenzen of San Luis Obispo said they realized that finding local, high-quality and responsibly raised meat options for their small family was not very easy or practical. “My wife and I recognized that there was a need and we needed to figure out how we could distribute these quality products to the home consumer,” said Jensen Lorenzen, who with his wife formed the Larder Meat Co., a subscription-based meat supply service that distributes locally sourced, sustainable beef, chicken, pork and seafood directly to customers across the West. “Our business is about sustainability and being able to support local growers, and practicality for the home consumer.” With many people at home and restaurants closed in 2020 during the COVID-19 pandemic, Lorenzen said demand for home delivery of quality meat was “off the charts,” adding, “Literally overnight, everybody understood the concept of ordering meat online.”

September/October 2021

Hearst Ranch, which has raised cattle on land that has been in

the family for more than 150 years, has teamed up

with the Larder Meat Co., a subscription service that offers quality meats for customers at home.

With Hearst Castle in the background, above, Hearst Ranch employees, from left, Lindsay Miller, Ben Higgins, Dann Russell and Roland Camacho, take a break from work on the property. At right, ranch cowboys Colton Miller, foreground, and Keith Pascoe sort cattle.

a very convenient and delicious part of our life,” Bonnett said. For its boxes, the Larder Meat Co. purchases grass-fed beef from Hearst Ranch, which has raised cattle on the Central Coast for more than 150 years. Because she is interested in where her food comes from and how it is produced, Bonnett said, “I want to support businesses that have the very best practices; that’s important to me. “I live near Hearst Ranch in San Simeon, so it’s kind of neat to get meat from somewhere that’s only a half-hour away, but also from such an iconic place,” she added. Hearst Ranch legacy Just off Highway 1 north of San Luis Obispo in San Simeon is an immense hillside property with ocean views and the world-renowned tourist destination of Hearst Castle. The area once served as a getaway for family and friends of William Randolph Hearst, the late newspaper publisher known for starting the nation’s largest newspaper

Help for home chefs As a wife, mother of 7- and 9-year-old children and a full-time student, Christina Bonnett of Los Osos was looking for quality, convenience and help with meal planning. “Just to know that you’re getting really good meat and that you have somebody who’s telling you delicious ways of what to do with it, that really is appealing,” Bonnett said. “I was tired of making those decisions like, ‘What does everybody want to eat tonight?’ or ‘Where does this meat come from?’” The Larder Meat Co. of fers 10-pound and 15-pound boxes for home delivery, containing cuts of beef such as steaks, fajita meat, ground beef and roasts. Boxes also include chicken and pork. A typica l box that arrives on her doorstep, Bonnett explained, includes a recipe card, a spice packet and of ten a bonus, such as loca l pasta or beans. “In the fall, I make a lot of chili and braised meat. My husband thinks it’s great; he likes grilling steaks and loves when I make chili or a brisket. It’s just been

September/October 2021

Iconic stretch of California coastline forever protected

Hearst Ranch, among the largest and oldest working cattle ranches on the California coast, also serves as the cornerstone of one of the largest land conservation agreements in California history. The Hearst Corp., state of California, California Rangeland Trust and American Land Conservancy took more than six years to reach the agreement in 2005. It led to Hearst agreeing to certain restrictions, such as giving up development rights, to ensure that the 128-square-mile Hearst Ranch remains working rangeland forever. The land includes 18 miles of California’s most scenic coastal landscape. Steve Hearst, great-grandson of William Randolph Hearst and vice president of the company’s Western Properties, called the family’s coastal ranch properties “showpieces.” These include 80,000 acres that surround the castle at San Simeon and 73,000 acres in Cholame, near Paso Robles.

Hearst Castle, circa 1940s

Hearst said it was important to tour the location with rangeland biologists, whom he said described the ranch as “a patchwork quilt of flora and fauna not exceeded anywhere in the world.” “When people come to the property, they understand. They see the land, the horses, the dogs and cattle,” Hearst said. The California Rangeland Trust describes a conservation easement as a voluntary, legal agreement between a private landowner and the trust to preserve agricultural land and open space in perpetuity. The nonprofit organization called the preservation of Hearst Ranch “a groundbreaking model for rangeland conservation around the country.” “This undisturbed coastal land stands as a breathtaking example of how good conservation management benefits all us by taking care of our water systems, protecting our cherished viewsheds, helping plants and wildlife thrive, and providing healthy, local food to our communities,” said Michael Delbar, CEO of California Rangeland Trust.

chain and media company. The site includes Hearst Ranch, where cattle have grazed on thousands of acres of hillsides since 1865. Steve Hea r s t , great-grandson of Wi l l i am RandolphHearst and vice president of the company’s Western Properties, said he’s spent time at the ranch since he was a child, riding, picnicking and moving cat t le during the summers: “It’s just been an enormous privilege. … It’s a very special place.” Hearst Ranch cattle are carefully managed and moved throughout the ranches on a seasonal basis to ensure the animals receive ample nutrition while conserving the native grasslands, oak woodlands and coastal prairies. Cattle spend their lives grazing on the family’s ranches in San Simeon and east of Paso Robles, and are raised to a f inished weight of approximately 1,200 pounds. Because of the seasonal nature of the business, Hearst Ranch beef is harvested in late spring and summer and then frozen to be offered year-round. Hearst Corp. supplies much of its beef to Whole Foods Market for Southern California, but Hearst

WilliamRandolph Hearst, early 1900s

William Randolph Hearst’s great-grandson Steve Hearst, left, grills beef at the Hearst Ranch bunkhouse. Top, Jensen and Grace Lorenzen, owners of the Larder Meat Co., with son Gus, partner with Hearst Ranch.

said he is excited about the partnership with the Larder Meat Co., saying it allows his company to promote its products directly to households. “Over the years, people have grown more concerned and inquisitive about where their food comes from, how it’s handled and how it’s raised. What we thought we would do was just open the door to our story,” Hearst said. He added he likes to cook and said his favorites are steak and tri-tip. “The other night, I barbecued a tri-tip, which was just fabulous. I take it off the grill at an internal temperature of 110 degrees and I foil it and in 10 minutes, it’s perfectly medium rare,” Hearst said. He adds “a little butter and olive oil in a pan and I put a lid on it. With some of these

New York steaks, it’s two and a half minutes a side, foil it and allow it to rest. We oftentimes grill a New York steak, slice it and prepare it over a salad, which is a very nice presentation.” Lorenzen said he and his wife and young son also enjoy Hearst Ranch beef. “I think the f lavor is better and I also love that it forces me to cook at home. We eat dinner together almost every night,” Lorenzen said, adding. “Hearst is one of the first single-origin, family-owned operations that I found. Hearst checks all the proverbial boxes for me, and they can grow at the scale that is necessary for our program.”

Christine Souza csouza@californiabountiful.com

September/October 2021

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Growing young artists

California agriculture sows story seeds in students’ imaginations

Story by Matt Craggs

Although farmers and ranchers live and work in all reg ions of Ca l i forni a , the s t ate’s popu l at ion i s overwhelmingly urban—and so are schools. The California Foundation for Agriculture in the Classroom helps bring agricultural knowledge into the classroom, and its annual “Imagine this…” Story Writing Contest has once again delivered a fresh, new crop of young writers and illustrators. For Judy Culbertson, the foundation executive director, the contest for grades three through eight is one of its premier programs. In addition to helping children understand where food and fiber come from, she pointed out , it ’s a plat form for thei r voice s and passions. “The contest was really developed to create a positive learning experience that promotes reading, writing and the arts, and it does it through a creative process,” Culbertson said. This research-based process fueled the stories from this year’s six statewide winners. In addition to being honored in virtual awards ceremonies and receiving prizes for themselves and their classes, the winners have their stories illustrated by high school art students for publication in an anthology. In “Imagine this… Stories Inspired by Agriculture 2021” (see Book Reviews on Page 37), the winning

students and teachers include f irst-time entrants, previous regional winners and siblings. A mix of fiction and nonfiction, the entertaining and fact-filled topics vary from a caulif lower’s self-worth to the cyclical life story of twin avocados. While ref lecting California’s diverse agricultural offerings, many stories also examine personal or social issues—such as prejudice, international economics, nutrition, and family recipes and businesses. Seventh-grader Al lee DePa lma’s winning story originated with her passion for makeup, which bloomed into a journey through historical and modern natural cosmetic ingredients. In her research, she unearthed information on plant-based makeup. “I was not only intrigued to learn about it for my benefit, but I was really excited to write a story about it,” she said. For Allee, and every student who participated, the “Imagine this…” StoryWriting Contest is an opportunity to learn about agriculture, Culbertson said, and also a chance for the students to direct the conversation about their futures as they become the next generation of California writers—or farmers.

Matt Craggs cbmagazine@californiabountiful.com

September/October 2021

‘Imagine this…’ Story Writing Contest 2021 state winners

“(Cauliflower) was new to our garden this year and that’s how I got the idea.”

Cauliflower Pizza by Jayna Wenger Third Grade , Hart Ransom Elementary School, Stanislaus County Teacher: Stacey Gonsalves A kitchen emergency leads to cauliflower finding a new place in the culinary world, while helping to save a neighborhood pizza joint. Illustrator: Tami Rouse Inderkum High School, Sacramento • Art instructor: Rachel Rodriguez

“I really like bell peppers … and I wrote what I could when I came up with interesting things in the middle of the day."

Colors Don’t Matter by Sofia Magni Fourth Grade , Sacred Heart School, Stanislaus County Teacher: Kevin Crivelli A young bell pepper defies peer pressure by learning about and befriending a bell pepper of another color. Illustrator: Maya Zendejas Woodland High School, Woodland • Art instructor: Alyssa Takahashi

“I have older sisters that are twins and they’re the inspiration for Ava and Audrey.”

Audrey and Ava the Avocados by Evelyn Dores Fifth Grade , St. Anthony School, Merced County Teacher: Brianna Perez Twin avocados graduate from school and travel to the grocery store, the kitchen and beyond. Illustrators: Abrar Abdulhadi and Chloe Yang Florin High School, Sacramento • Art instructor: Alexandra Pease

“I was happy to finally be a published author and to see the illustrations and my ideas brought to life.”

TheWonderful World of Wool by Hailee Luiz Sixth Grade , Scott Valley Junior High School, Siskiyou County Teacher: Jed Merrihew A girl learns how the wool from her favorite sheep is processed and turned into a variety of products—from lotion to insulation. Illustrators: Luna Pease and Haley Sevigny Florin High School, Sacramento • Art instructor: Alexandra Pease

Become California ‚

s next author

The annual “Imagine this...” Story Writing Contest allows California children to craft informative and entertaining agriculture-themed stories. Students in grades three through eight can hone their academic skills and flex their creativity as they work with teachers to research and write their stories. The contest awards 48 regional winners. The six statewide winners

“I realized that there is a lot of agriculture behind makeup.”

Alison and the Secrets BehindMakeup by Allee DePalma Seventh Grade , Gratton Elementary School, Stanislaus County Teacher: Rexann Casteel Two makeup enthusiasts discover the historical and modern uses of natural and plant-based makeup. Illustrator: Tasia King Inderkum High School, Sacramento • Art instructor: Rachel Rodriguez

“Since we were in the pandemic and we had a garden, I started writing ideas and then it all came together.”

Backyard Basil by Will Magni Eighth Grade , Sacred Heart School, Stanislaus County Teacher: Elaine Magni Practical tips and real-life experiences fuel this story of homegrown basil and homemade pesto. Illustrators: Kali Kindelt, Melia Raj and Grace Reimer Woodland High School, Woodland • Art instructor: Scott Coppenger

have their stories illustrated by high school art students for collection in a published anthology. Additionally, statewide winners receive prizes for themselves and their classrooms, along with a trip to Sacramento to be honored during an awards ceremony at the state Capitol. The deadline for entries in the 2022 “Imagine this…” Story Writing Contest is Nov. 1. To find more information or to enter, visit LearnAboutAg.org.

californiabountiful.com 31

recipes

Story by Barbara Arciero • Photos by Frank Rebelo

The root of

Destiny or coincidence? David and Kelly Gomez choose the former when reflecting on the genesis of a partnership that has yielded four children, four grandchildren and a thriving catering business. Born in the same San Antonio hospital within two months of each other, the couple didn’t meet until they were in their 20s, working in a convalescent hospital in Whittier, Calif. He was the kitchen manager and she was the activity director. “We met because he saw a sticker in my office that said, ‘Don’t mess with Texas,’” Kelly recalled. Twenty-five years ago, the Gomezes replanted their Texas roots in Northern California and gradually transitioned from employees to employers. “We started catering on the side for people we knew, doing community events, things for our kids’ school, fundraisers, donating food and then realized we liked it,” Kelly said, with David adding that their ultimate goal was to find a way to work together again. Now they do, as owners of Roots Catering in Hamilton City. “We love hanging out together and we’ve always worked really good as a team,” David said. “We really complement each other.” Kelly is the administrator and catering director, while David serves as executive chef. As such, he said his goal is to prepare each ingredient—sourced locally, when possible— in an authentic way, often doing extensive research if he isn’t familiar with a cuisine or dish a client has requested. That commitment aligns with the couple’s desire to become more deeply rooted in their community. “There’s a saying we like that says, ‘When you give people your food, you give them your heart,’” Kelly said. “For David and I, that’s so often how we share ourselves, by making and celebrating the food.” Couple celebrates community and each other through culinary partnership

Barbara Arciero barciero@californiabountiful.com

David and Kelly Gomez chose the name “Roots” for their catering business to reflect their ties to the community and the authenticity of their food.

September/October 2021

CALABACITAS (PORK-ZUCCHINI STEW)

There are many variations to this dish; however, squash is the one ingredient always present. “This is how I remember my mom’s calabacitas, along with beans and fresh, homemade flour tortillas,” David Gomez said. “I easily return to that moment of my life.”

Serves 12

2 to 3 tbsp. oil 1 1/2 lb. pork butt, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 lb. tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch dice 1 poblano chili, fire-roasted, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice 1 1/2 cups corn kernels 1 tsp. dried oregano leaves 2 bay leaves 1 lb. zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch dice

Salt and pepper, to taste 1 cup diced yellow onion 2 garlic cloves, minced 4 cups chicken broth

In a stock pot large enough to hold at least 1 gallon, add enough oil to coat the bottom of the pot and heat on medium. When oil is hot, add pork, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 10 minutes or until meat is golden brown. Add onion and garlic. Continue to cook until onion is translucent, being careful not to burn garlic. Add 2 cups broth and scrape the bottom of the pot to loosen any seared particles. Add remaining 2 cups broth, tomatoes, chili, corn and herbs. Cook at a gentle simmer for 20 minutes. Add zucchini and continue cooking for 20 to 30 minutes or until meat is tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

californiabountiful.com 33

FIG, POMEGRANATE AND GOAT CHEESE SALAD with honey balsamic vinaigrette

A few years ago, Kelly Gomez discovered her appreciation for figs. “This salad celebrates her newfound love for figs, along with some of her other favorites,” her husband, David, said.

Serves 4

5 fresh figs, quartered 1 tbsp. brown sugar 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon 1/4 cup pumpkin seeds 4 slices bacon 1 tbsp. honey 1 tbsp. fresh orange juice

1/2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar 1 tsp. extra virgin olive oil 1 head romaine, chopped 1/4 cup pomegranate seeds 2 tbsp. crumbled goat cheese Fresh black pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place figs in a small baking dish, and sprinkle with brown sugar and cinnamon. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes or until sugar caramelizes to a mahogany glaze. Remove from oven and cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, spread pumpkin seeds on a small sheet pan and roast for 6 to 8 minutes or until toasted. Remove from oven and set aside. Lay bacon slices flat on a rimmed sheet pan and cook for 15 minutes or until crisp. Remove from oven. Transfer to a clean plate and let cool. When cooled, break bacon into pieces. Set aside. (Figs, pumpkin seeds and bacon may be cooked in the oven together.) In a small bowl, whisk together honey, orange juice, balsamic vinegar and olive oil. Place all salad ingredients in a salad bowl and toss with vinaigrette. Serve on cold plates with a grind or two of pepper.

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